Rolex Submariner on a dark surface

Rolex Submariner: why it is the default answer, and when it is the wrong one

Steel Submariners trade about 40 to 47% above retail in 2026. The gold model trades 12% below. Here is what makes the Submariner a strong store of value, and when it is the wrong buy.

Quick answer

The steel Rolex Submariner is one of the safest places to put watch money because its market is deep, prices are transparent, and it sells quickly. In 2026 the no-date 124060 retails at $10,050 in the US. It is the wrong buy when you pay far above retail, buy a compromised example, or choose it only because it is the default.

Key takeaways

  • The steel Submariner is one of the most liquid luxury watches you can own, and that liquidity is a large part of its value.
  • Steel and precious-metal versions behave very differently on the secondary market.
  • Paying far above retail for any version erases most of its advantages.

Ask ten people what luxury watch to buy first and several will say the Submariner. That advice is lazy more often than not, but it is not wrong. Understanding why it works, and where it stops working, is a good lesson in how value retention actually happens.

Close-up of a black Rolex Submariner bezel and dial
Photo: Patrick Langwallner / Unsplash.

Why the Submariner works

Rolex launched the Submariner in 1953 and has changed it slowly ever since. The design is recognised everywhere, demand is global, and there is a deep pool of buyers and dealers in every major market. That combination is what you are really paying for. Not rarity, but liquidity.

Hilco Global’s 2026 assessment of the watch market describes steel Rolex sport references as increasingly commodity-like, with a high degree of pricing transparency. For a buyer that is a strength. You can see what the watch sells for, and you can sell it again with reasonable confidence.

The current line-up in brief

The current generation arrived in 2020 with a 41 mm case. In steel there are three core references: the 124060 without a date, the 126610LN with a date and black bezel, and the 126610LV with a date and green bezel. Two-tone and gold versions sit above them in price.

Which one is best is personal. From a value point of view, the steel references are where liquidity is deepest.

The 2026 numbers

In January 2026 the Submariner’s US retail price passed $10,000 for the first time. Loupe lists the 124060 at $10,050, up from $8,950 two years earlier, an increase of about 12%. The date models sit at $10,250 for the black 126610LN and $11,350 for the green 126610LV. The yellow gold 126618LB retails at $48,600.

ReferenceUS retailSecondary market valuePremium or discount
124060, steel, no date$10,050$14,006+39%
126610LN, steel, black bezel$10,250$15,107+47%
126610LV, steel, green bezel$11,350$16,401+45%
126618LB, yellow gold$48,600$42,618−12%
Source: Loupe, Submariner retail analysis (2026). Premiums calculated by The Dial Report from Loupe’s figures. Loupe’s summary cards show slightly different values for the same references.

Submariner: secondary value versus retail, 2026

Premium (gold) or discount (blue) of secondary market value over US retail.

Premium over retailDiscount to retail

Source: Loupe, 2026. Calculations by The Dial Report.

This is the clearest illustration we know of the gap between steel and gold. Every steel Submariner trades at roughly 40 to 47% above retail. The gold model, more than four times the price new, trades about 12% below it. Buy a steel Submariner at retail and you are, on paper, ahead the day you leave the shop. Buy the gold one at retail and you are around $6,000 behind.

Two-tone Rolex Submariner with a blue dial
Two-tone and gold Submariners cost far more new, and the secondary market discounts them. Photo: Caramel / Unsplash.

The Submariner on the Dial Report Score

We rate value retention with five weighted forces, the same method used in The Watch Investment System and the Deal Analyzer. Here is how the steel no-date 124060 scores, assuming a full set in excellent condition.

ForceWeightScoreWhy
Brand strength30%9/10The deepest and most liquid brand in the secondary market
Scarcity and supply25%7/10Produced in large numbers, but still hard to buy new at retail
Desirability20%9/10A design that has stayed relevant since the 1950s
Condition and papers15%9/10Assumes a full set in excellent condition
Liquidity10%10/10One of the easiest watches in the world to sell
Editorial ratings. Adjust them in the Deal Analyzer if you disagree.
86/100Dial Report Score, steel 124060, full set
Blue-chipBand for scores of 85 and above
$10,050US retail, January 2026 (Loupe)

A score of 86 puts the steel Submariner in the blue-chip band. That does not mean every Submariner is a good deal. The score rates the watch. Whether a specific purchase makes sense depends on the price, which is why the Deal Analyzer combines the score with price into a separate Deal Score.

Which Submariner? The three steel references compared

124060126610LN126610LV
DateNoYesYes
BezelBlackBlackGreen
MovementCalibre 3230Calibre 3235Calibre 3235
US retail, 2026$10,050$10,250$11,350
Who it suitsPurists, symmetrical dialEveryday practicalityBuyers who want colour and more presence
Retail prices from Loupe. Movement details from Rolex.

All three share the 41 mm case introduced in 2020, waterproofing to 300 metres, and a power reserve of around 70 hours, according to Rolex. The no-date is the cleanest design and usually the cheapest. The date is the most practical. The green-bezel 126610LV costs more at retail and attracts a different, more fashion-led buyer, which can make its secondary price more volatile.

Two-tone Rolex Submariner with a blue dial on a black background
A two-tone Submariner. Precious-metal versions cost far more at retail and behave differently in the secondary market. Photo: Pexels.

Steel versus gold: a different asset

Precious-metal Submariners cost much more at retail, and the secondary market tends to return a smaller share of that price than it does for steel. Hilco notes gold references are harder to value with confidence. Rolex’s 2026 price increases also landed on gold and two-tone models, roughly 7 to 9% on gold in January and another 5% in June, while steel retail prices were left unchanged.

If you want gold because you love gold, buy it. Just do not buy it expecting it to behave like steel.

When the Submariner is the wrong buy

  • When you are paying a large premium over retail. A steel model bought at retail does not need to rise to be a sound purchase. Bought far above retail, it does.
  • When it is not the watch you want. The most sensible watch you do not enjoy wearing is still a bad purchase.
  • When the example is compromised. Replaced parts, heavy polishing, or missing papers reduce what you can get back, often by more than the discount you were offered.
  • When you may need the money back soon. Even the most liquid watch carries a dealer spread.

What a Submariner really costs to own

The purchase price is only the start. Here is an illustration of ten years of ownership for a steel Submariner bought at €11,000, with no change in market value. The service cost and interval are assumptions based on typical Rolex figures, and insurance is assumed at 1.5% of value a year.

Cost over ten yearsAmountAssumption
Purchase price€11,000Middle of the market for a full set
InsuranceAbout €1,6501.5% of €11,000 a year
One full serviceAbout €750One service in ten years, in line with the roughly ten-year intervals reported by aBlogtoWatch
Selling cost if sold privatelyAbout €7156.5% marketplace seller fee, our assumption
Total cost, before any price changeAbout €3,115Roughly €310 a year to wear the watch
Illustration only. Your insurance, service, and selling costs will differ.

About €310 a year is the cost of wearing one of the best-known watches in the world, if the market stays flat. If prices rise, that cost shrinks. If you pay too much at the start, it grows quickly. Our full guide to the true cost of owning a luxury watch explains each line.

A Submariner-specific inspection checklist

  • Serial and papers. Check that the serial engraved on the watch matches the guarantee card exactly.
  • Bezel. The ceramic insert should be free of chips, and the bezel should click firmly through its 120 positions in one direction only.
  • Bracelet and clasp. Check for stretch between links, and that the Glidelock extension system works smoothly.
  • Polishing. Look at the lugs and case sides. Heavy polishing softens sharp edges and reduces value.
  • Crystal and date. On date models, the magnifier over the date should be clear and correctly aligned.
  • Timekeeping. Ask how the watch is running and when it was last serviced, and get the service paperwork if there is any.

Our complete pre-owned due diligence checklist covers the seller, payment, and paperwork as well as the watch.

Alternatives if the Submariner is not right for you

If the premium, the waiting list, or simply the ubiquity of the Submariner puts you off, several dive watches offer strong value retention at a lower entry price. They score lower on brand strength, but they are often easier to buy close to fair value, and their markets can be even more liquid.

WatchWhy consider itBrand sell-through, Q1 2026
Tudor Black Bay 58Vintage-inspired proportions, Rolex group engineering, lower price89.4% (Tudor)
Tudor PelagosTitanium tool watch with a loyal following89.4% (Tudor)
Omega Seamaster Diver 300MStrong design heritage and wide availability69.6% (Omega)
Rolex Submariner (for comparison)The benchmark dive watch43.4% (Rolex)
Sell-through is the share of listings that sold in the quarter, from Loupe. It measures the speed of the market, not the strength of the brand.

A higher sell-through rate does not mean a better investment. Rolex sells through a lower share of listings partly because so many Rolex watches are listed. What it does show is that a Tudor or an Omega is not a hard watch to sell. Our Cartier and Tudor analysis and Omega secondary market guide go deeper.

How to buy one well

  • Check completed sold prices for the exact reference, not the Submariner family as a whole.
  • Prefer complete sets with matching serial numbers, and verify them.
  • Inspect the case. Crisp edges and an original bezel matter for resale.
  • Know what a dealer would pay before you commit, so you know your downside.

The Submariner is the default answer because it is rarely a disaster. Bought at the right price, it is one of the few watches where enjoying what you own and protecting what you paid point in the same direction.

Free tool

Check any Submariner deal in seconds. Pick the reference, enter the asking price, and see fair value, your Bottom Cash Value, the Dial Report Score, and ten-year ownership costs.

Open the Deal Analyzer

Frequently asked questions

How much is a Rolex Submariner in 2026?

US retail prices in January 2026 are $10,050 for the no-date 124060, $10,250 for the black-bezel date 126610LN, and $11,350 for the green-bezel 126610LV, according to Loupe. Pre-owned steel models typically trade above retail.

Does the Rolex Submariner hold its value?

Steel Submariners have historically held value better than most watches because the market for them is deep and liquid. Whether your watch holds value depends mainly on the price you pay and its condition and completeness.

Which Submariner is the best investment?

We do not recommend buying any watch as an investment. From a value-retention point of view, the steel references have the deepest market. Precious-metal versions usually return a smaller share of their retail price.

Is the Submariner no-date or date better?

It is personal. The no-date is the purist choice and usually cheaper. The date is more practical. The green-bezel version costs more and attracts a more fashion-led buyer.

How often does a Submariner need servicing?

Rolex has moved to long service intervals of around ten years for current watches, as reported by aBlogtoWatch, and a full service typically costs several hundred euros. Check with an Official Rolex Jeweler for current prices in your country.

Sources

This article is educational and is not financial advice.

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